Test Fit the Body

Spent the past weekend test fitting the body.

Then we took it for a short drive around the neighborhood.

There are still a number of things to finish up, but we are getting closer to 'substantial completion'.

These photos don't really show the color well and you can see that the gaps are not set, especially on the tilt front, but it does give a general idea of what it will look like when complete.

I can say that without a doubt, this thing is an absolute blast to drive.

We're looking forward to getting the final assembly done, then taking it out on the road for some longer drives.

Tilt front open

Cockpit aluminum

Working on getting the cockpit completed. First step is to test fit all of the aluminum panels. Once the test fit is complete, each panel was marked on the underside along the frame rails and removed.

Each panel was then drilled on 2" centers for riveting. To make it simpler, we took a roll of 3/4" wide painters tape and drilled holes in it every 2". Then we just took a section of tape, layed it on the aluminum and drilled where the holes in the tape were. It seemed to save a lot of time. After a panel was drilled, the holes were cleaned up then the panel was installed and the existing holes were used to drill the frame rails. The panel was removed and the frame holes were cleaned up. Next step was to lay a bead of clear silicone on the frame rail, install the panel and rivet the panel in.

Then repeat. Again and again and again.

After all the cockpit panels were installed, we covered them with heat and sound insulating material. There are a number of products out there, but we elected to use EZ Cool. It is lightweight and easy to cut and shape. We used a light foil type tape to fasten them to the panels.

Next step will be installing the carpet, then the seats can be installed.

Clutch fix then 1st test drive

Got the clutch working.

Replaced the 13/16" clutch master cylinder with a 1" Willwood master.

Removed the old m/c, installed the new one. Did a bench bleed, then connected it to the slave cylinder and bled that line.

Tested the clutch and got full engagement.

So we fired it up and went for a drive around the block to test the systems.
Some of the neighbors were out and were curious as to what it was. Got a couple of thumbs up and a couple quizzical looks.

Pictures to follow.

Replacing the lug studs

The lug studs that came on our Ford 8.8" rear end are too short.

That means that the lug nuts don't fully engage so we replaced the studs.

It should be easy. Hammer out the old studs, press in the new ones. The only problem is that you can't get the longer studs into the axle because of the emergency brake mechanism.

So we need to pull the axles to get enough room to install the new studs.

Hammer out the old studs.

Remove the 5 link rear differential housing.

Remove the housing bolts, gently pry the cover loose and drain the gear fluid.

Rotate the axle to get access to the axle pin retaining bolt. Sometimes these bolts need to be heated to release the thread locker, but we did not have to do that.

Remove the bolt.

Tap the axle pin in about an inch, then rotate the axle 180 degrees so you can pull the pin out the other way.
Remove the pin.

Rotate the pinion gear so that you can see the axle retaining clip. Push the axle toward the center of the car to get access to the 'c' clip. Use a screwdriver and magnet to slide the clip out.

You can then slide the axle out enough to slip the new lug studs into their respective holes.

Repeat for the other side. Then reverse the steps to reinstall the axles, pin, retaining bolt and differential cover.

Clutch fork pivot adjustment

Getting closer to the first test drive (also known as go-carting).

The problem is that the clutch does not fully engage. It appeared that the clutch fork pivot ball needed to be adjusted. The pivot ball is located inside the bellhousing and there is no access to adjust it, so the transmission needs to be removed.

The rear end was jacked up enough to allow the engine hoist to slide under the car and tow straps were used to support the transmission.

The drive shaft was unbolted, and the bolts that mount the transmisison to the support bracket were removed, and the transmission was unbolted from the bellhousing.

There is not much room to slide the transmission back so access to the pivot ball was limited. Access was a challenge, but just enough to loosen the jam nut, make the adjustment and retighten the jam nut.

The clutch fork was replaced on the pivot ball, the throwout bearing slid onto the transmission shaft and the transmission slid back into the bellhousing. The hydraulic clutch was reinstalled and tested.






There is still not quite enough throw on the clutch slave cylinder so we will replace the master cylinder to see if that will increase the throw enough to engage the clutch.

First Start

First start is always a big milestone in a build.

From the last post, we have done some additional wiring, including adding a fuel pump switch. After getting the switch wired in, we double checked all the fuel lines and fittings. We wanted to flush the lines, so the return line was disconnected from the fuel tank and inserted into an empty gas can. We added fuel to the gas tank, got some wet and dry towels and got the fire extinguisher ready, just in case.  :)

After connecting the battery, the fuel pump switch was flipped on. The pump quickly filled the supply line and pressurized the fuel lines. One fitting was dripping fuel, so the pump was turned off and the fitting was redone. 2nd attempt resulted in no leaks. The pressure regulator was adjusted to 3 pounds. The return line was working properly and fuel flowed freely into the can. We ran about 2 gallons through the system then shut off the pump.

We filled up the cooling system with water and replaced the pressure cap.

The spark plugs were installed, then the spark plug wires were attached. Firing order was double checked.

Wiring was checked to the distributor, coil and MSD box.

Ignition switch was turned on, we hit the start button and it fired right up.

Next step is to adjust the timing and synchronize the carbs.

Full disclosure.... the video is actually the 2nd start, I really didn't expect it to start the first time so I didn't have the camera ready.

Mechanical Throttle Linkage

The kit comes with a throttle cable, but we elected to make up a mechanical linkage setup.

Parts were sourced from McMaster Carr, Elliott's Hardware, Speedway Motors and Russ Thompson.

Heim joints were attached to the firewall. Angle bracing was bolted to the frame to provide additional support.

One set of ball joint rod end linkages were installed on threaded rod and attached to the pedal and linkage arm, and another set was attached the carburetors and linkage arm. The linkage arms were attached to the horizontal unthreaded rod.

Additional holes were drilled through the linkage arms and unthreaded rod to ensure positive travel and eliminate the possiblility of the linkage arms slipping on the rod. There is a fair bit of tension from the carburetor return springs.

A hole was marked and drilled through the footbox for the horizontal rod.

Setup was tested and adjusted for WOT (wide open throttle) to ensure the carbs were in sync.

This setup will also allow an adjustment so that full throttle pedal movement will only open the carbs partially.